You can use a ford starter relay and I'm sure RV stores would have what you want. I'd think pretty seriously about LED lighting just to cut the load. Good luck.ĭo you have a PTO in a place where you could rig up a pulley and alternator? Since the battery is isolated when not running, there is no issue with self drain down from "Battling batteries". I see no reason for not using a marine starting battery, or even a Optima yellow top. You should size the isolator and relay for 30 amps (420watts), to my reckoning.
HIGH AMP BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY FULL
Shorter interval use (ie, winch) of the full 450 watts should not be an issue. About 100 watts should keep the normal requirements satisfied, leaving about 125 available for sustained use.
For normal use, I would figure about half that, unless you operate it near redline all the time. Your buggy has a output wattage of about 450 watts. but making sure the components are compatable is my concern if im not going to buy a pre fab kit and I am going to buy the parts separately. I have a plenty of experience in this subject when installing lights, winches, stereos, etc and of course and running wires. My Polaris Ranger had a "Polaris kit" that ran a second atv sized battery (same size as the starting battery) however when using offroad lights or pretty much anything that isolator was constantly "clicking" moving power to the second battery. #2 should both batterys be the same size ? I was intending on mounting a oversized marine grade battery under the seat of my machine for all the extra's I will be running. Cleary wont be as high as a car's alternator. that said, how large of a isolator/relay should I be using ? no clue what he power output of the stator on a UTV is. Im going to add a second battery, isolator/relay to my new UTV Kawasaki Teryx. so, Mod's if there is a better place for my question please feel free to move this thread. Unfortunately this is the best forum for the question I would think and the second battery will power after market lighting.
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